Front Wheel Removal

A place to discuss matters related to Honda Helix scooters.

Front Wheel Removal

Postby dsmith41 » Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:30 pm

Has anyone on here removed the front wheel of their Helix? It's time for a new tire and the shop will charge me 40 bucks to mount it if I bring in the whole bike but if I just take in the wheel, its only $18. I'd like to just take it off but I'm wondering what I would be getting into. It looks like there's that one bolt on the right side but I don't know what's behind that plastic cover on the left side. Do you have to mess with the brakes much? Is it worth the extra cost to have the shop do it all?
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Postby northernplains » Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:19 pm

Its really easy, I did it last month when replacing my tire. Look at the online manual which is a sticky at the top of this forum index and just following the directions. Easy easy.
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Postby Dennis » Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:17 pm

After you remove the wheel, take it to a tire store if you already have the tire. It will cost less than $18.
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Front Tire Removal

Postby BTDFXD » Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:21 pm

This is a little strange as just 10 minutes ago I got finished putting my front wheel back on after having a tire change. Taking the wheel off is a piece of cake. Remove speedometer cable (one Phillips head screw) and take off axle nut and remove axle. Wheel basically rolls forward out of calipers and your off. This may be a reflection of my mechanical inability, but replacing the wheel is a two person job. Facing the scooter, there are two dust shields on the right and a spacer. On the left hand side is another gizmo that does not like to stay in place. All these parts have to be in place properly as you remount the wheel-they like to fall off and they must be in place before you put the axle back in. I didn't have enough hands to keep everything in place while simultaneously lifting and aligning the wheel. Fortunately, my son came over and between the two of us all is back in place and well. Total time, 5 minutes off and 15 minutes back on (two people). I paid $13 to have the tire mounted at an RV store. If a dealer would have done the entire installation for $25 I would have gladly paid it but I would guess it's probably more like $50+ for which I am glad I did it myself. Good luck and if you have any questions, I'd be glad to help as I just went through the experience.
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Front Tire PS

Postby BTDFXD » Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:24 pm

When you have the tire mounted, make sure to tell them to align the round paint mark with the valve stem-I understand this is a balancing thing. I forgot to ask them to do that and had to take it back. Also, the tires are directional (arrow on the tire to show forward rotation direction). Might want to point this out as well so they don't put it on backwards.
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Postby dsmith41 » Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:05 pm

So the brake rotor will still be on the wheel when I take it in, right?
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Front tire removal

Postby BTDFXD » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:01 pm

Yes, no need to mess with the rotor. If you do it yourself, make sure you account for the spacer on the right hand side. It is not secured by anything. When I took my wheel off and put it in the trunk to have the tire changed, unbeknowst to me, it fell off ( it was secured to the wheel with grunk). I went to put the wheel back on and noticed a part was missing. It had fallen off in the trunk. If it is stuck to the wheel as mine was, I'd recommend pulling if off and leaving it at home so it doesn't get lost.

ps grunk=dirt/grease
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Postby dsmith41 » Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:36 pm

Well how about another tire related question while I'm at it? :oops: I have noticed while shopping for tires that the ML 17 and I assume most other tires that are 110/100-12 are only rated at 62 mph. Why would Honda build a machine that is easily capable of going 70+ mph and only put a tire on it that is rated at 62 mph? Seems like a great liability to me.
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Postby jeffj » Sat Aug 30, 2008 6:48 am

Where did you find the speed ratings for the Bridgestone ML17? I am interested...

EDIT: Oh, I see, speed rating "J" - 62mph. Yes, I'm curious, too. I just put these on my HH, and I ride at or just above 62mph most of my daily commute. What about the OEM Dunlop, what is the rating?
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Tip

Postby byeway » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:28 pm

When (if) you take off the front wheel, it may be easier to replace if you have a "fake"' axle shaft handy. It should be a bit smaller in diameter.

Insert this "tool" from the "nut" side of the forks.

Put loose parts for that side, in correct order, on the tool.

This will align and hold the loose parts correctly located. If needed, a bit of grease will keep things from sliding off the tool.

Put the wheel in place.

Insert the axle shaft from the other side.
With a bit of "wiggling" the axle will slide through, with all sleeves, spacers and washers in place; pushing the tool out of its way.
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Postby dsmith41 » Thu Sep 04, 2008 12:03 pm

Okay so I'm trying to get the wheel off the bike and I can't get the nut to budge. I got a 14mm on the right side and a 19mm on the left. Neither of them will move at all. I can see the fork flexing when I try to torque the nut off and I'm afraid I'm gonna break something. Is there a trick to this that I'm missing out on?
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Postby bear » Thu Sep 04, 2008 12:35 pm

I'm sure someone else will chime in. I have not done that so, I don't know if your missing something.

I'm just throwing out the tricks for braking loose a stubborn bolt.

Get some penetrant. Apply liberally. Thwack the bolt a few times. Apply more penetrant. Thwack some more and go drink a beer. Try to loosen the nut. If it didn't work, repeat. Either it will come loose or you'll be too drunk to care :lol:

Good luck.

Oh, and use 6 point sockets, not 12 point. You mind round out the bolt with a 12 point.

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Postby dsmith41 » Thu Sep 04, 2008 1:30 pm

I must already be too drunk to care because I just took it into the cycle shop and told them to deal with it. Either I'm too drunk or I have a TON of things on the ol' agenda today and not enough time to screw with it. I'm gonna go with the latter. :)
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